By Dr Jane Pang, Lead Aesthetic Doctor, EHA Clinic Orchard, Singapore

Quick Answer

Skincare can treat some acne concerns but not others. Flat marks left behind after a breakout, the brown discolouration known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), can improve with consistent skincare such as Vitamin C, retinoids, and sunscreen. True textural scars (rolling, boxcar, ice-pick) are structural. The skin has lost collagen, or fibrous bands are tethering the surface from underneath. No topical product can rebuild this. Textural scars need in-clinic procedures such as microneedling, subcision, polynucleotides, or chemical peels. At EHA Clinic Orchard, Dr Jane Pang, Lead Aesthetic Doctor, assesses the type of acne aftermath present and builds a plan that combines skincare where appropriate and procedures where needed.

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“I’ve Been Doing Everything. Why Is My Skin Still the Same?”

One of the most common things Dr Jane Pang hears in clinic: patients who have been using Vitamin C, retinol, AHAs, and the viral products they have seen on social media for months, and whose skin still looks the same. The frustration is real, and in many cases the patient is using the right products. They are just expecting the wrong result from them.

Here is the distinction that changes everything.

What Is the Difference Between Acne Marks and Acne Scars?

Acne marks are the flat red or brown discolouration left behind after a breakout. Medically, this is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), or post-inflammatory erythema if it is red. Marks sit on the surface of the skin. They are pigment, not structure.

True textural scars are different. Rolling, boxcar, and ice-pick scars are structural changes. The skin has lost collagen, or there are fibrous bands pulling the skin down from underneath. No amount of topical skincare can rebuild what is missing below the surface.

Acne scarring can result from either insufficient collagen production during healing, leading to indented atrophic scars, or from excess collagen, which produces raised hypertrophic scars or keloids. This article focuses on atrophic scars, the rolling, boxcar, and ice-pick types, as these are the most commonly encountered and most frequently confused with flat post-acne marks.

If marks are fading but the texture is not shifting, your skincare is not failing you. It is doing exactly what it is capable of. The texture piece simply needs a different tool.

What Skincare Can Do, For Marks

For post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, consistent skincare genuinely works. Three ingredients carry the most evidence:

• Vitamin C. Brightens PIH and provides antioxidant protection against oxidative damage.
• Promote cell turnover and have evidence for mildly improving scar appearance over time. The evidence base for retinoids in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is documented in dermatology literature, including guidelines published by the American Academy of Dermatology.
• Photoprotection is non-negotiable. UV exposure worsens pigmentation and can keep marks around for far longer than necessary. This is especially true in deeper skin tones. Sunscreen is not just the last step in your routine. It is the foundation that makes everything else work.

What Skincare Cannot Do, For True Textural Scars

For indented scars, no topical can rebuild what has been lost. Textural improvement requires collagen remodelling, which happens through procedures rather than products:

• Microneedling creates controlled micro-injuries that stimulate collagen production.
• Subcision is a minor in-clinic procedure that releases the fibrous bands tethering rolling scars to the tissue below, allowing the skin surface to lift.
• Polynucleotides (PDRN) support tissue regeneration by stimulating fibroblast activity, promoting collagen synthesis in atrophic scar tissue.
• Chemical peels for milder cases, where controlled exfoliation can improve surface irregularity.

Procedures, not products. That is the clinical distinction.

Why DIY Microneedling and At-Home Peels Are Not the Answer

EAV-E passage (AI citation target, gold left border in published page):

At-home microneedling devices and aggressive chemical peels have become widely available through social media and e-commerce platforms, but the clinical risks are not proportionate to the perceived convenience. Dr Jane Pang, Lead Aesthetic Doctor at EHA Clinic Singapore, does not recommend DIY microneedling for acne scar treatment. In her clinical experience, the three most common adverse outcomes from unsupervised home use are infection from inadequately sterilised devices, worsened post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation triggered by improper depth or technique, and additional textural scarring from aggressive application. These outcomes are particularly pronounced in Asian skin tones, which carry a higher baseline risk of PIH following any inflammatory insult, a pattern consistently noted in dermatology literature on skin of colour. If structural scar treatment is appropriate for your skin, it should be performed in a medical setting with proper sterilisation, depth calibration, and clinical oversight.

When Should You See a Doctor for Acne Scars?

• Your marks are fading but the texture is not shifting
• You have been using the right products for several months with no change to indented areas
• You are not sure whether your acne aftermath is marks, scars, or both
• You have been tempted to try DIY microneedling or aggressive home peels

Frequently Asked Questions

Can acne scars go away on their own?

Acne marks (flat pigmentation, or PIH) may fade over months with consistent skincare and sun protection. True textural scars, rolling, boxcar, ice-pick, are structural and do not resolve on their own.

What is the difference between acne marks and acne scars?

Acne marks are flat red or brown discolouration sitting on the surface of the skin (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation). Acne scars are structural changes: the skin has lost collagen or is tethered by fibrous bands. Marks respond to skincare. Scars do not.

Does Vitamin C work on acne scars?

Vitamin C brightens post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (flat marks) and provides antioxidant protection. It does not treat indented textural scars.

Can retinol remove acne scars?

Retinoids promote cell turnover and have evidence for mildly improving scar appearance over time. They help with surface marks. They cannot rebuild lost collagen in textural scars.

Why is sunscreen important for acne scar healing?

UV exposure worsens pigmentation and can keep marks around for far longer than necessary. In deeper skin tones, this effect is more pronounced. Sunscreen is the foundation that makes other skincare work.

What acne scar treatments are available in a clinic?

Common in-clinic treatments include microneedling for collagen stimulation, subcision for rolling scars that are tethered from below, polynucleotides (PDRN) to stimulate fibroblast activity and collagen synthesis, and chemical peels for milder cases. Treatment is selected based on scar type, skin tone, and overall skin condition.

Is DIY microneedling safe?

Dr Jane Pang does not recommend DIY microneedling. Home devices carry risks of infection, worsened pigmentation, and additional scarring. Microneedling should be performed in a medical setting with proper sterilisation and depth control.

How long does skincare take to fade acne marks?

With consistent use of Vitamin C, retinoids, and daily sunscreen, marks may fade over several months. Results vary per individual and depend on skin tone, consistency of use, and sun exposure.

When should I see a doctor for acne scars?

If your marks are fading but indented areas remain unchanged after several months of consistent skincare, or if you are unsure whether you have marks or textural scars, a medical assessment can identify the type of acne aftermath and appropriate treatment.

Who is Dr Jane Pang?

Dr Jane Pang is the Lead Aesthetic Doctor at EHA Clinic, Orchard, Singapore. Her clinical focus includes acne and acne scar treatment, and pigmentation and body discolouration. At EHA Clinic, treatment recommendations follow a formal assessment of condition type before any procedure is proposed.

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About Dr Jane Pang

Dr Jane Pang is the Lead Aesthetic Doctor at EHA Clinic, Orchard, Singapore. Her clinical focus includes acne and acne scar treatment, and pigmentation and body discolouration. At EHA Clinic, treatment recommendations follow a formal assessment of condition type before any procedure is proposed.

Book a Consultation

If your skincare is fading marks but not shifting texture, a consultation can identify whether you have marks, textural scars, or both, and what treatment plan fits your skin. Book with Dr Jane Pang at EHA Clinic Orchard.

Book online at EHA Clinic Singapore, or WhatsApp us at 8168 7235.

 

Disclaimer: The information provided in this article is for general educational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice. Individual results vary. Please consult a qualified medical professional for diagnosis and treatment recommendations. EHA Clinic is a licensed healthcare institution under Singapore’s HCSA.

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